TN: Handloom Industry Faces Existential Crisis, 2.5 Lakh Weavers Stare at Dark Future¬¬

The handloom industry that employs over 2.5 lakh weavers in Tamil Nadu is facing an acute existential crisis. The industry is primarily household-based and the required craftsmanship is sustained by generationally passing down skills. The weavers are facing a massive setback as the powerloom industry is now manufacturing items reserved exclusively for the handloom sector, as per the Handlooms (Reservation of Article for Production) Act, 1985.

Manufacturers and weavers are now jointly holding a protest, seeking intervention from the Union and state governments to put an end to this emerging crisis in the handloom industry. On July 31, a hunger strike was held on in Arni, Tiruvannamalai, against alleged illegitimate activities in the powerloom industry other major demands.

The Federation of Handloom Weavers has urged the state government to procure handloom products stocked up in cooperative societies and with individual manufacturers to save them from landing in huge debts.

Both weavers and manufacturers have announced that they will hoist black flags on August 7, a day observed as National Handloom Day in the community.

ON THE BRINK OF DESTRUCTION

The handloom industry plays a key role in generating employment in rural and semi-urban areas. A total of 52% of people employed in this industry are women. As per data furnished by the All India Handloom Census 2019-20, there are 2.44 lakh handloom and allied workers who depend on this industry. There are 1,112 handloom weavers’cooperative societies, with 1.25 lakh registered weavers. These cooperatives produced Rs 1,190.30 crore worth of cloth and sold products valued at Rs 1,414.22 crore, as per the policy note of Handlooms and Textiles Department of Tamil Nadu , 2022-23.

However, since January 2023, the industry is facing a massive setback due to unchecked manufacturing of goods by the powerloom industry, including sarees, dhotis, lungi and towels, reserved exclusively for the handloom sector.

“This manufacturing is against the law, leading to piling of stocks of original handloom products. They are even branding powerloom products as handlooms. Such practices should be prevented by the government and the department”, E Muthukumar, general secretary of Handloom Weavers Federation told Newsclick.

After a series of protests from handloom weavers since the first week of July, the department concerned conducted raids on shops selling powerloom-woven sarees and other goods. “They found out that goods are being sold at exorbitantly high prices. A saree worth Rs 15,000 was sold at Rs 49,000. This is affecting consumers and weavers”, Muthukumar added.

Thousands of weavers and manufacturers joined the hunger strike held in Arni, Tiruvannamalai district.

The federation demandedcurbs on the inflow of powerloom products from states, such as Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh to various towns in Tamil Nadu.

On July 31, a hunger strike was held jointly by the weavers and manufacturers to draw the attention of the handloom department and the government of Tamil Nadu to their woes.

WEAVERS IN DEBT TRAP

Several protests were held across well-known silk-weaving towns against the government inaction. The federation claimed that stocks of unsold products worth Rs 1,000 crore hadpiled up with weavers and small manufacturers since the past six months.

“Usually, the weavers take loans to weave products. They can repay the loans only if their products are sold. During crisis situations, the state government intervenes, but its recent actions are delayed. The Union government should also intervene to bring an end to the crisis”, Muthukumar added.

On July 28, a massive protest and demonstration was held in Kancheepuram by the Kancheepuram Silk and Cotton Handloom Weavers Union urging the department of handloom to address the issues raised. On July 10, around 5,000 weavers from Arni, Polur and Cheyyar in Tiruvannamalai district protested in Arni.

Silk and cotton weavers held a protest rally and demonstration on July 28 in Kancheepuram

“We have decided to intensify the protest and have called for a black flag protest on August 7. A delegation of weavers and manufacturers will meet the minister for handloom to submit a detailed memorandum. The weavers, which include women, are badly affected and the government should intervene to save this industry from destruction”, V Sivaprakasam, district secretary of the Kanchipuram Weavers Union told NewsClick.

Even as the industry faces a crisis propelled by the next generation moving away in search of lucrative job opportunities, the present workforce of around 2.5 lakh artisans needs the government’s urgent attention.